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When hailstorms hit Madison, Wisconsin in July, the damaged roofs they left in their wake prompted experts to warn city homeowners about roofing repair companies. Soon thereafter, yard signs and flyers from roof repair companies littered the neighborhood. In response, Channel3000.com reported, "Local contractors and consumer protection experts urge homeowners to do their homework first and check a [roofing] contractor's history to avoid signing with a so-called 'storm chaser' who might come swooping through the area."

The report went on to state, "State officials said that they urge consumers to learn more about any company." More specifically, Wisconsin's Bureau of Consumer Protection "warned that residents should be cautious of groups who might be trying to rush the deal." Officials from the state Department of Agriculture, Trade and Consumer Protection further cautioned, "Nearly every time there's a big weather event somewhere in the state, the office does get calls about questionable contractors."

Meanwhile, in Denver, Colorado, the damaging storms the city received earlier in the summer season was prompting officials to echo Madison's sentiments. A KDVR report titled "Tips to avoid storm repair scams" revealed that in the month of June, "the Denver/Boulder Better Business Bureau says 85 percent of inquiries it received were related to roof repair."

To prevent homeowners from falling victim to such scams and to save itself the headache of dealing with the resulting complaints, the BBB issued a list of suggestions to "avoid getting taken as far as [roof] repairs are concerned." They included:

1. Take your time in choosing a roofing contract. Although the repair may seem urgent, signing on the dotted line with the first company who knocks on your door is setting yourself up for disaster. "Always get three bids and check each company out with your BBB," the Denver Better Business Bureau advised.

2. Now is not the time to be trustworthy. Just because someone looks the part or says he is a roofing professional doesn't mean he is. "Get [his] business card and contact the main office for the company [he] say [he] works for and verify the person's employment," the BBB cautions.

3. Try to stick to a roofing repair contractor in your own state. Out-of-state businesses are more likely to be fly-by-night operations that will be near impossible to track down, let alone dispute, down the road when a shoddy roof repair job becomes apparent.

4. Don't sign anything without reading it thoroughly. If something is unclear to you, seek legal counsel. The BBB recommends that "you clearly understand what you and the contractor are both responsible for."

5. Your home insurance company is your best friend on the heels of roofing damage. Contact them immediately and "conduct an inspection with the claims adjuster before involving any contractor."

6. Make sure you contact your insurance carrier yourself. Never divulge "your insurance information to a contractor and do not allow them to file a claim on your behalf."

7. Check with you county building department to ensure that the roofing contractor you're considering is licensed.

8. If you've already signed a contract "that locks you into paying even if no work is done," admit your folly and "contact your attorney immediately."

The roof of the house, when properly designed and constructed, should protect the house from the elements for hundreds of years, maybe indefinitely. As a rain gutter contractor here in Michigan I have seen many roof designs that fail at this basic job: protecting the home from the elements. Many of the older homes have stood the test of time though where an addition was added water infiltration, rot and mold is a frequent occurrence. Older homes were generally smaller and complex roof designs were avoided because the basic shape of the house was rectangular. Contemporary, mass produced "spec homes" are mazes of wings, odd shapes, kicked-outs, dormers, gables, cathedral ceiling great-rooms and other features built for no other apparent reason than curb-side "Wow" factor. Living in and maintaining these homes will be an expensive endeavor for the homeowner.

"The roof shall protect the home from the elements". Start with this basic idea and the appropriate design will become apparent.

1. The roof should channel and collect water for irrigation of landscaping; drywells are required by code in many places and protect our fresh water supply.
2. Avoid long roof valleys at all costs. Short valleys for dormers should be of metal. Never bend shingles into a valley; these shingles will fail long before the rest of the roof.
3. The slope of the roof should always be oriented away from decks, patios,
entrances and driveways; the gable end must be over these areas or a small "doghouse" or dormer be used to channel water from the entrance area or porch.
4. A valley must never end next to a vertical exterior wall.
5. Gutters should be kept to a minimum and always be accessible from the ground with the average home owner kept in mind for cleaning. (see my articles on gutter design)
6. Avoid flat and low slope roofs at all costs!
7. Choose the appropriate slope for the climate the house will be built in.
8. Avoid vertical walls next to a roof surface where snow can swirl and drift.
9. Be generous with eves and soffit for ventilation and insulation. Eves also protect the widows from rain and give shade to keep the house cool and save energy.
10. Consider investing in metal roofing.

The house designed with these features will be moderate in size. The savings realized from a smaller house with a simple roof can be used to upgrade to such things as metal roofing, larger windows, built-in cabinetry, hardwood floor, high quality plumbing fixtures and better heating and cooling equipment. This will create long-term value for generations to comes.

"Form follows function". The beauty of the design in found in its functionality.

Tag : roof,strong roof,metal roof

Roof maintenance is a crucial part of overall house maintenance. Irrespective of whether your roof is made of wood, tiles, metal materials or shingle, to ensure a long life for your house you must maintain your roof well.

The usual problems that occur with roofs can be manifold. Leakage is one such problem. If not fixed in time, the leakage might make water sip through into your walls and weaken the base of your house. The entire structure of your house is threatened. Hence it is important to check regularly for evidences of leaks in your house such as mold, moisture and stains of water, and take action at the earliest if such evidence is found.

In case of wooden roofs you would want to ensure that the wood does not show any evidence of cracking. For tile roofs, watch out for cracked and broken tiles and replace such tiles immediately. And it is advisable to fix such problems with professional help, since improper finish might lead to further problems.

To detect issues with your roof, there are some symptoms to look out for. For a flat roof, a good drainage system is critical. Watch out for missing shingles, tiles or nails. Ensure there are no cracks and noticeable decays. Dry and dirty-looking areas on your roof may be a sign of the roofing material on those areas are at the end of their life span and require replacement. Make sure that the mortar and bricks of your chimney are all in good shape.

Last and never the least, make sure every repair that you make meet the desired quality standards - else it would hurt your house more than it would help.

Tag : roof,roof repair,red roof,metal roof

Knowing common roofing terminology will enable you as a homeowner to make an informed decision about roofing materials that are good matches for your home's style and the region in which you live. It will also help you understand the contract with your roofing professional and the project updates.
Some key roofing terms are listed below:

Asphalt: A waterproofing agent applied to roofing maerials during manufacturing.

Asphalt plastic roofing cement: An asphalt-based sealant used to bond roofing materials. Also known as flashing cement, roof tar, bull or mastic.

Back surfacing: Granular material applied to the back side of shingles to keep them from sticking during delivery and storage.

Base flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to or resting on the deck to direct the flow of water onto the roof.

Built-up roof: Multiple layers of asphalt and ply sheets bonded together.

Butt edge: The bottom edge of the shingle tabs.

Caulk: To fill a joint to prevent leaks.

Closed valley: The valley flashing is covered by shingles.

Coating: A layer of viscous asphalt applied to the outer roof surface to protect the roof membrane.

Collar: Pre-formed flange placed over a vent pipe to seal the roof around the vent pipe opening. Also called a vent sleeve.

Concealed nail method: Application of roll roofing in which all nails are covered by a cemented, overlapping course.

Counter flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to a vertical surface above the plane of the roof to prevent water from migrating behind the base flashing.

Course: Row of shingles that can run horizontally, diagonally or vertically.

Cricket: A peaked water diverter installed at the back of a chimney to prevent accumulation of snow and ice and to deflect water.

Deck: The top surface of which a roof system is applied, surface installed over the supporting framing members.

Double coverage: Asphalt roofing whose lapped portion is at least two inches wider than the exposed portion, resulting in two layers of roofing material over the deck.

Downspout: A pipe for draining water from roof gutters to drain. Also called a leader.

Drip edge: L-shaped flashing used along the eaves and rakes to allow water run-off into the gutters and to drip clear of underlying construction.

Eave: The part of the roof that overhangs or extends outward and is not directly over the exterior walls or the buildings interior.

Exposed nail method: Application of roll roofing where nails are driven into the overlapping course of roofing. Nails are exposed to the elements.

Fascia: A wood trim board used to hide the cut ends of the roof's rafters and sheathing.

Felt: Fibrous material used as an underlayment or sheathing paper, describes roll roofing materials.

Flashing: Pieces of metal or roll roofing used to form water seal around vent pipes, chimneys, adjoining walls, dormers and valleys.

Gable: The end of an exterior wall that comes to a triangular point at the ridge of a sloping roof.

Granules: Ceramic-coated and fired crushed rock that is applied as the top surface of asphalt roofing products.

Gutter: The trough that channels water from the eaves to the downspouts. Usually attached to the fascia.

Head lap: An overlapping of shingles or roofing felt at their upper edge.

Hip: The fold or vertical ridge formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes. Runs from the ridge to the eaves.

Ice dam: Condition forming water back-up at the eave areas by the thawing and re-freezing of melted snow on the overhang. Can force water under shingles, causing leaks.

Interlocking shingles: Individual shingles that mechanically fasten to each other to provide wind resistance.

Laminated shingles: Strip shingles made of two separate pieces laminated together to create extra thickness. Also called three-dimensional and architectural shingles.

Lap: Surface where one shingle or roll overlaps with another during the application process.

Mansard roof: A design with a nearly vertical roof plane connected to a roof plane of less slope at its peak. Contains no gables.

Mineral stabilizers: Finely ground limestone, slate, traprock or other inert materials added to asphalt coatings for durability and increased resistance to fire and weathering.

Nesting: A method of reroofing, installing a second layer of new asphalt shingles, in which the top edge of the new shingle is butted against the bottom edge of the existing shingle tab.

Pitch: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in feet, to the span, in feet.

Low Slope - Roof pitches that are less than 30 degrees.

Normal Slope - Roof pitches that are between 30 and 45 degrees.

Steep Slope - Roof pitches that are more than 45 degrees.

Rafter: The supporting framing that makes up the roof structure; immediately beneath the deck; the roof sheathing is nailed to the rafters.

Rake: The inclined edge of a sloped roof over a wall from the eave to the ridge. They can be close or extended.

Ridge: The horizontal external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping sides of a roof at the highest point of the roof, hip or dormer.

Run: The horizontal distance between the eaves and a point directly under the ridge; or one half the span.

Selvage: That portion of roll roofing overlapped by the application of the roof covering to obtain double coverage.

Sheathing: Exterior grade boards used as a roof deck material.

Shed roof: A single roof plane with no hips, ridges, valleys or gables, not connected to any other roofs.

Slope: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in inches, to the run, in feet.

Smooth-surfaced roofing: Roll roofing that is covered with ground talc or mica instead of granules (coated).

Soffit: The finished underside of the eaves that extends from the fascia to the siding and hides the bottom of an overhang.

Soil stack: A vent pipe that penetrates the roof.

Span: The horizontal distance from eaves to eaves.

Specialty eaves flashing membrane: A self-adhering, waterproofing shingle underlayment designed to protect against water infiltration due to ice dams or wind driven rain.

Starter strip: Asphalt roofing applied at the eaves as the first course of shingles installed.

Tab: The weather exposed surface of strip shingles between the cutouts.

Telegraphing: Shingles installed over an uneven surface that show distortion.

Truss - A combination of beams, bars and ties, usually in triangular units to form a framework for support in wide span roof construction.

UL label: Label displayed on packaging to indicate the level of fire and/or wind resistance of asphalt roofing.

Underlayment: A layer of asphalt based rolled materials installed under main roofing material before shingles are installed to provide additional protection for the deck.

Valley: The internal angle formed by the intersection of two inclined roof surfaces to provide water runoff.

Vapor barrier/retarder: Any material that prevents the passage of water or water vapor through it.

Vent: Any device installed on the roof as an outlet for air to ventilate the underside of the roof deck.

Tag : roof,metal roof,red roof,roofing

Once you have made some preliminary decisions about your roofing needs, here are some things to consider when beginning the process.

1. How to find a qualified roofing contractor.

Qualified roofing contractors should have the appropriate licenses for your area. Each state has its own license requirements. If the contractor does not offer proof of their license, call your local contractors board to find out. Your roofing contractor must be properly insured with both workers compensation and general liability. Be sure to get references from the roofing contractor's previous clients to determine their level of workmanship.

2. What caused your roof to be damaged in the first place?

Was your roof damaged due to wear from the elements such as wind or moisture? Are your roofing problems due to improper design? Has your roof not been properly maintained over the years?

3. Information about roofing styles, materials and maintenance requirements.

The most common roofing styles are gable and hip. Other, more unique styles include mansard, bonnet and shed. There are two categories of roofing materials, pitched and flat. Pitched roofing materials include slate, metal, tile and shingles and shakes. Flat roofing materials include tar, rolled roofing, rubber and gravel.

Preventative maintenance is key to making needed repairs before you have a roofing emergency. Have your roof inspected twice a year by a professional roofing contractor.

4. How to create proper roof ventilation.

Proper roof ventilation is important to prevent ice dams and it will lower your energy costs because you will not be needlessly heating or cooling your attic space.

5. How to protect your roof and home from harsh weather and ice dams.

Your roof will be protected from ice dams with proper ventilation which keeps the roof's surface at a constant temperature, not allowing ice dams to form at the eaves. Also, waterproofing underlayment will help protect your roof from water damage and leaks.

In some states they do not let you collect the water from your rain gutters and roof, and then reuse it in your yard to water plants or the lawn. Their reasoning is they do not want bacteria, algae, and mosquitoes to breed in the water that you have collected. But if you are careful in how you do it this won't happen.

Further, many states are relaxing their rainwater collection rules for homeowners, as they know many homeowners are collecting the water anyway and they really have no way to enforce that. Plus, after years of severe droughts, well, those old laws really need to be taken off the books anyway.

You should check and make sure that the state that you live in allows you to collect rainwater from your rain gutters and roof. If it does, I recommend getting a couple of barrels and putting them below the downspout of your rain gutters. All you have to do is pull off one section at the bottom of your rain-gutters and place the barrel below it before a storm.

Then after the storm passes simply tilt the barrel a little bit and roll it out of the way and put a new barrel there, for the next storm. You can use this water, very easily if you put a small water tap at the bottom of the barrel with a garden hose attachment. Then take a small pressure washer and hook it up to the barrel and shoot the water anywhere you want it.

If you cover up the barrel once you've collected the water you could use that water in the summertime to water plants. This helps everyone with the drought and is especially good for those homeowners that are on wells. Please consider all this.